THE "B" Word
A Common Branding Lure.
Bespoke derives from the verb Bespeak (to speak for).
The word itself dates back to 1583 and is defined as goods, especially clothing made to order.
During the 1700s tailors would keep their materials on their premises and when
customers would specifically ask for a fabric it was considered
"spoken for" (reserved), hence bespoken for.
The term "bespoke" as applied to suit making is understood to have originated
on Savile Row, in the 1800s.
After the Industrial Revolution "bespoke" became a description for specially
commissioned products vs. mass-produced, ready-made products.
Until recently, very few knew about bespoke unless you were ultra wealthy.
It used to be an underground market but since so many brands use the term
interchangeably with Custom or Made-To-Measure (Su Misura) the
term "bespoke" has become more mainstream.
Even though "bespoke" is an over used word present day, the true meaning of
bespoke remain a rare one-of-one offering. It is not for everyone but rather for
those who appreciate the very highest of quality and willing to go through great
lengths to acquire what they desire.
To better understand bespoke as it relates to suit making, we must first
understand there are different levels of garment making.
Standard size garments are often referred to Ready-To-Wear or Off-The-rack
(OTR). This type of clothing is mainly offered in retail stores. Off-The-Rack
garments are mass-produced which is the most popular and efficient
manufacturing method used by most clothing brands today.
The next level of garment making is Made to Measure Tailoring.
This method is considered the most common among custom tailored garments as
it is made affordable to a broader audience.
These types of custom garments are created with a pre-existing block pattern.
Usually 2 fittings are provided with MTM garments, with the exception
of those companies who offer separate advance fitting services.
Essentially MTM is a watered down version to bespoke tailoring.
Delivery time is normally 4 - 6 weeks.
Craftsmanship / Fused, Half or Full Canvas
Average Price Range $1,200 - $2,400
Bespoke Tailored refers to clothing made from an original pattern.
The bespoke tailoring method places a heavy focus on the pattern making process by which a suit is created.
Bespoke Suits are offered by Bespoke Tailors and never online hence it is a service not a point of sale purchase.
You should expect at least 3 fittings at a minimum.
The bespoke suit making process requires 50-80 hours of labor which most if not
all work is completely made by hand - non-handwork is usually long seams which
are done by small machines. Across the industry, delivery time is approximately
8 weeks but can take up to 3 months depending on the tailor. Less time is
required for returning clients with a pattern on-file.
During your first fitting fabrics and style options are discussed of which there are
no limitations. Your tailor will record at least 30 different measurements as well as note your
posture variables to start drafting an original pattern.
At your second fitting, a full basted try-on will be created to test the pattern -
Note: This is not a finished suit - it should be an unfinished suit in it's skeleton-
stage. This is probably the most important aspect of the bespoke suit making
process. It is during this stage pattern adjustments will be made to the actual
garment to accommodate the proper fit & drape. This advance level of pattern-
making is what distinguishes bespoke from made to measure and custom tailoring.
Bespoke is about placing layer upon layers of pattern adjustments to achieve
a fit that is superior to any other form of garment making as with couture dressmaking.
The pattern is tested at the basted stage as many times as needed prior to
finishing a bespoke suit vs. tailoring a finished suit after-the fact. There are so
many aspects of what can and can not be altered without compromising the
integrity of a finished suit - but that is beyond the scope of this article.
Note: A tailor will make all major pattern adjustments at the basted fitting stage.
During your third fitting, the focus is primarily on the trimming details such as;
buttons, lining, special pockets, etc. At this point the garment is basically
finished. If any, minor fit adjustments are noted and corrected at this stage.
Delivery time is normally 8 - 10 weeks.
Craftsmanship / Full Canvas
Average Price Range $5,000
(Source: Forbes Magazine, Nicola Ruiz)