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BOBBY MACC BESPOKE COUTURE

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Washington, DC 20006

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Custom Suits: Washington DC Atlanta Raleigh Miami Virginia Beach

Custom Suits by Bobby Macc Bespoke.  Located in Atlanta, Miami, Washington DC, Raleigh, Philadelphia, and other select cities. 

Purveyor of Bespoke Suits & Custom Tuxedos.

Schedule A Fitting Reservation For A Custom Suit.

Bespoke Suits

Bobby Macc

bespoke-suits

THE "B" Word

A Common Branding Lure.

 

BESPOKE

 

Bespoke derives from the verb Bespeak (to speak for).

The word itself dates back to 1583 and is defined as goods, especially clothing made to order.

 

 

HISTORY

During the 1700s tailors would keep their materials on their premises and when

customers would specifically ask for a fabric it was considered

"spoken for" (reserved), hence bespoken for.

  The term "bespoke" as applied to suit making is understood to have originated

on Savile Row, in the 1800s.  

After the Industrial Revolution "bespoke" became a description for specially

commissioned products vs. mass-produced, ready-made products.

Until recently, very few knew about bespoke unless you were ultra wealthy.

 It used to be an underground market but since so many brands use the term

interchangeably with Custom or Made-To-Measure (Su Misura) the

term "bespoke" has become more mainstream.  

Even though "bespoke" is an over used word present day, the true meaning of

bespoke remain a rare one-of-one offering.  It is not for everyone but rather for

those who appreciate the very highest of quality and willing to go through great

lengths to acquire what they desire.

 

To better understand bespoke as it relates to suit making, we must first

understand there are different levels of garment making.

 

LEVELS

 

Ready-To-Wear

Standard size garments are often referred to Ready-To-Wear or Off-The-rack

(OTR).  This type of clothing is mainly offered in retail stores.  Off-The-Rack

garments are mass-produced which is the most popular and efficient

manufacturing method used by most clothing brands today. 

 

 

Made-To-Measure

The next level of garment making is Made to Measure Tailoring.

  This method is considered the most common among custom tailored garments as

it is made affordable to a broader audience.   

These types of custom garments are created with a pre-existing block pattern.

Usually 2 fittings are provided with MTM garments, with the exception

of those companies who offer separate advance fitting services.

Due to popularity, you are more likely to work with a third-party (wardrobe

consultant, stylist or sales person ) during the creation vs. a bespoke tailor.  

Essentially MTM is an affordable scaled down version of a bespoke suit.

The price of a Made To Measure Custom Suit from a reputable company will range

from $1,200 - $5,500 depending on the clothier or designer brand.

These custom garments are produced by Machine or Handmade.

Delivery time is normally 4 - 6 weeks.

Craftsmanship / Fused, Half or Full Canvas

 

 

Bespoke Tailoring

Bespoke Tailored refers to clothing made from an original pattern.  

The bespoke tailoring method places a heavy focus on the pattern making process by which a suit is created. 

Bespoke Suits are offered by Bespoke Tailors and never online hence it is a service not a point of sale purchase.

  You should expect at least 3 fittings at a minimum.  

The bespoke suit making process requires 50-80 hours of labor which most if not

all work is completely made by hand - non-handwork is usually long seams which

are done by small machines.  Across the industry, delivery time is  approximately

8 weeks but can take up to 3 months depending on the tailor.  Less time is

required for returning clients with a pattern on-file. 

During your first fitting fabrics and style options are discussed of which there are

no limitations unlike Made To Measure or online Custom Tailoring.  

Your tailor will record at least 30 different measurements as well as note your

posture variables to start drafting an original pattern.

At your second fitting, a full basted try-on will be created to test the pattern -

Note: This is not a finished suit - it should be an unfinished suit in it's skeleton-

stage.   This is probably the most important aspect of the bespoke suit making

process.   It is during this stage pattern adjustments will be made to the actual

garment to accommodate the proper fit & drape.  This advance level of pattern-

making is what distinguishes bespoke from made to measure and custom

tailoring.  Bespoke is about placing layer upon layers of pattern adjustments to

achieve a fit that is superior to any other form of garment making as with couture

dressmaking.  This is why a bespoke fit is superior to MTM, Custom Tailoring as

the pattern is tested  at the basted stage as many times as needed prior to

finishing a bespoke suit vs. tailoring a finished suit after-the fact.  There are so

many aspects of what can and can not be altered without compromising the

integrity of a finished suit - but that is beyond the scope of this article.

Note: A tailor will make all major pattern adjustments at the basted fitting stage.  

During your third fitting, the focus is primarily on the trimming details such as; 

buttons, lining, special pockets, etc.  At this point the garment is basically

finished.  If any, minor fit adjustments are noted and corrected at this stage.

 

MEETING DEMAND

Note:  Regarding bespoke garment production, it is very common for one tailor to

specialize in a specific area within the bespoke suit making process such as

trousers and another tailor focus on the jacket, pattern, etc.  A division of labor is

normal in most bespoke garment operations who accommodate clients across regions.

In 2008, the average price of a bespoke suit was around $5,000 - $12,000.  

- Forbes Magazine, Editor  - Nicola Ruiz

Today, the pricing is relatively unchanged with no indications of making a

downturn but rather increasing as affluent individuals continue to demand a

higher level of personalized service.